FLASH JUNIORS: RULES AND GUIDANCE FOR COMPETITORS

(Or spectators wanting to know what’s going on!)

GENERAL INFO

  1. All problems will have clearly marked, with fixed starting positions for both hands. There may also be premarked holds for feet.
  2. The finishing hold will be clearly marked in the same colour as the starting holds.
  3. The bonus hold will be clearly marked in Black Tap. It must be held in control, not just touched, in order to count.
  4. Competitors are permitted to use brushes to clean any holds they can reach whilst standing on the ground. Higher holds can be brushed (or brushed for you) as long as you do not touch/inspect the holds. Brushes may be used by competitors to clean holds that may be reached from the ground. Other holds may be cleaned competitors as long as there is no tactile inspection of the holds.
  5. An attempt is classed as successful once the finishing hold has been held with both hands (‘matched’) in a controlled manner. During the final an attempt is successful when the finishing hold is held with both hands and the judge says ‘OK’.
  6. The qualifying round adopts exactly the same format as our normal Bouldering Leagues/Comp nights, but has slightly different scoring (see details below):
  7. The Grand Final will run in accordance to the [IFSC Rules], with a few exceptions. We’ve summarised the exceptions below and also noted the key points for each round for those not so familiar with the rule book!
  8. The Final have 4 problems for each competitor, which are to be climbed in a set order with timed climbing periods and rest periods.

QUALIFYING ROUND

  1. There are 30 numbered problems in the qualifying round – competitors can climb them in any order.
  2. There are a total of 30 qualification problems but each category will attempt 20 out of 30. These will be clearly marked
  3. This round is self-scoring – mark down your attempts and progress accurately as you go. Judges will be present and any cheating will be suitably highlighted!
  4. Competitors have a maximum of three attempts per problem. A successful first attempt is worth 10 points, a successful second attempt is worth 7 points, a successful third attempt is worth 4 points. Holding the bonus hold is worth 1 bonus point, however this point will not be included in your overall score. The bonus point only come into play in the event of a tie break i.e. your score could be 160 points plus 18 bonus points.
  5. In the event of a broken hold, a loose hold, or anything else which results in unfair advantage or disadvantage to any competitor, the problem must be repaired. The competitor can make another attempt on the problem.
  6. Once both qualifying rounds have taken place, all competitors will be ranked in order of total points scored, then bonus points.
  7. The Top 10 male and female competitors from each age category will proceed to The Grand Final
  8. Click here to view a typical score sheet and further information.

THE FINAL

  1. The Comp wall will have 24 marked problems in total; 8 for Youth A, 8 for Youth B and 8 for Youth C (4 per male and female)
  2. Each competitor will have 4 problems to climb.
  3. There is 4 minutes climbing time per problem, no more. i.e. when the clock gets to 00:00 your time is up and you must descend the wall.
  4. The problems must be climbed on-sight, with no observation time.
  5. Competitors will be held in isolation until they are ‘called to climb’ their first problem.
  6. The starting order will in reverse order of qualification i.e. if you qualified last, you will climb first.
  7. Competitors do not return to isolation in between problems, they must sit in front of the next problem they are to attempt, facing away from the competition wall.
  8. Each problem will have an allocated judge, who will be responsible for scoring.

IN THE EVENT OF A TIE

In the event of a tie in the final, we will ‘count back’. This means we will use the qualification score to split the competitors. If the qualification scores are a tie, we will look at the number of qualification flashes. If competitors are still tied, the prize money for the corresponding places will be combined and halved.

FOR EXAMPLE

Two competitors tie for 2nd place, even after employing ‘count back’. The prize money for 2nd and 3rd will be combined and distributed 50/50. The person with the 3rd highest score (but 4th in the final overall) will receive 4th place prize (and so on).

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