SUMMER / WINTER BOULDERING LEAGUE RULES


GENERAL INFO

  1. All problems will have clearly marked, with fixed starting positions for both hands. There may also be premarked holds for feet.
  2. The finishing hold will be clearly marked in the same colour as the starting holds.
  3. The bonus hold will be clearly marked in Black Tap. It must be held in control – not just touched – in order to count.
  4. Competitors are permitted to use brushes to clean any holds they can reach whilst standing on the ground. Higher holds can be brushed (or brushed for you) as long as you do not touch/inspect the holds. Brushes may be used by competitors to clean holds that may be reached from the ground. Other holds may be cleaned competitors as long as there is no tactile inspection of the holds.
  5. An attempt is classed as successful once the finishing hold has been held with both hands (‘matched’) in a controlled manner. During the final an attempt is successful when the finishing hold is held with both hands and the judge says ‘OK’.
  6. Each Bouldering League Series has 4 rounds plus a grand final.
  7. Qualification for the the Grand Final is based upon entering a minimum of 3 qualifying rounds.
  8. At the end of the final qualification round (round 4), all competitor scores from all rounds will be collated into one final table. The table will be split into male/female and sorted by those who have entered the highest number of rounds.
    1. Those who have entered 4 rounds will have their lowest scoring round excluded and the remaining 3 rounds totalled.
    2. Those who have entered 3 rounds will have all scores totalled.
    3. Those who have entered only 2 or 1 rounds will be excluded from the final table
  9. In the event that less than 10 male or female competitors have entered 3 or more rounds, we will include the highest scoring competitors who have attended 2 rounds.
  10. In the event of a tie, we will increase the number of competitors in the final.
  11. The Grand Final will run in accordance to the [IFSC Rules], with a few exceptions. We’ve summarised the exceptions below and also noted the key points for each round for those not so familiar with the rule book!
  12. The Final have 4 problems for each competitor, which are to be climbed in a set order with timed climbing periods and rest periods.

ALL QUALIFYING ROUNDS 1 TO 5.

  1. Competitors can choose which rounds to enter.
  2. Each session is 3 hours long – normally 18:30 to 21:30 ( Christmas Comp is normally different).
  3. Each round will have 30 numbered problems – competitors can climb them in any order.
  4. There is no isolation, all competitors can watch and communicate with others during the session.
  5. Each round is self-scoring – mark down your attempts and progress accurately as you go. Judges will be present and any cheating will be suitably highlighted!
  6. Competitors have unlimited attempts per problem. A successful first attempt is worth 10 points, a successful second attempt is worth 7 points, a successful third attempt is worth 4 points. If you take more than 4 attempts to finish the problem, you get 2 points, and if you get to the bonus hold (holding it in control) but do not complete the problem, you get 1 point.
  7. In the event of a broken hold, a loose hold, or anything else which results in unfair advantage or disadvantage to any competitor, the problem must be repaired. The competitor can make another attempt on the problem.
  8. Once all qualifying rounds have taken place, the qualifying scores will be collated to see who has competitors will be ranked in order of total points scored, then bonus points.
  9. The Top 10 male and female competitors from each age category will proceed to The Grand Final
  10. Click here to view a typical score sheet from a qualifying round, and further information.

THE GRAND FINAL FINAL

  1. The Comp wall will have 8 marked problems in total; 4 male and 4 female.
  2. Each competitor will have 4 problems to climb.
  3. There is 4 minutes climbing time per problem, no more. i.e. when the clock gets to 00:00 your time is up and you must descend the wall.
  4. The problems must be climbed on-sight, with no observation time.
  5. Competitors will be held in isolation until they are ‘called to climb’ their first problem.
  6. The starting order will in reverse order of qualification i.e. if you qualified last, you will climb first.
  7. Competitors do not return to isolation in between problems, they must sit in front of the next problem they are to attempt, facing away from the competition wall.
  8. Each problem will have an allocated judge, who will be responsible for scoring.
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