November 9, 2018 9:38 pm


Over recent months we’ve been considering how to fine tune our route setting to make best use our climbing areas and climbing holds.

Having listened to feedback from our customers we wanted to:

  • Increase the overall number of boulder problems in the centre
  • Reduce the amount of downtime on the DMM comp wall
  • Improve the quality of climbs within circuits 3, 4 and 5
  • Increase the number of climbs in circuits 1, 2 and 3
  • Add a circuit suitable for complete beginners (Circuit Zero)

Circuit Zero

Zero is a brand new circuit aimed at complete beginners and junior climbers. They will be very accessible in terms of difficulty and most will finish at around 4m high so won’t feel quite as committing. Like all the other circuits, Zero will utilise all the holds in our store and because of this, the boulders will be fun and challenging for people climbing at that level.

Our circuits will still be labelled with a disc, starting with a new ‘0’ and progressing in difficulty through numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. For those interested in making the comparison to Outdoor grades, the current system will pretty much stay the same – see image.

Zone Five

Zone Five is the new name given to a collection of problems which will be set on the DMM Comp Wall but will not be part of a ‘comp set’. There will be around 25 problems largely belonging to circuits 3, 4 and 5. The reason for moving some of these boulder problems away from the main circuit area is to make use of the steeper wall angles. This means harder boulders can be set with more finger friendly holds. Historically, when setting harder problems on vert and slab it may require some proper dirty ming (i.e. dirty horrible crimps etc..) Like ming? Don’t worry, there will still be ming…

As with all our zones, Zone 5 will be set every 8 weeks on rotation.

In summary, what does this all mean?

  • A new circuit of around 20 boulders for complete beginners – Zero.
  • An increased number of boulders in circuits 1, 2, & 3 in Zones 1 to 4.
  • A better quality of boulder problem for circuits 3, 4 and 5 (set on the DMM Comp Wall).
  • The DMM Comp Wall will rarely be empty of boulders e.g. when a comp set is stripped, Zone 5 will still be on the wall.

The Zones

If you want a refresher on what the zones are, here’s the full list:

  • Zone 1: CAC Slab & L/H side of boulder
  • Zone 2: The Back Wall & R/H side of Boulder
  • Zone 3: Tenaya Slab & Front of Boulder
  • Zone 4: The Cave & Back of Boulder
  • Zone 5: DMM Comp Wall (Excluding Comp Blocs)
  • Squad Wall: Comp Style RouteSetting

All the zones are reset roughly 8 weeks.

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