COMPETITION RULES AND GUIDANCE FOR COMPETITORS
(Or spectators wanting to know what’s going on!)
- All problems will be clearly marked, with fixed starting positions for both hands and there may also be premarked holds for feet.
- The finishing hold will be clearly marked in the same colour as the starting holds.
- The bonus hold will be clearly marked in Black Tape. It must be held, not just touched, in order to count.
- Competitors are permitted to use brushes to clean any holds they can reach whilst standing on the ground. Higher holds can be brushed (or brushed for you) as long as you do not touch/inspect the holds.
- An attempt is classed as successful once the finishing hold has been held with both hands (‘matched’) in a controlled manner and the judge says OK.
- The qualifying round adopts exactly the same format as our normal bouldering leagues/Comp nights, but has slightly different scoring (see below).
- The Semi Final and Final Rounds run in accordance to the [IFSC Rules], with a few exceptions. We’ve summarised the exceptions below and also noted the key points for each round for those not so familiar with the rule book!
- Both the Semi Final and Final have 4 problems for each competitor, which are to be climbed in a set order with timed climbing periods and rest periods.
- Head here for age categories
- Competitors can choose which qualifying session (A or B) to take part in when registering online. Each session is 3 hours long.
- There are 30 numbered problems in the qualifying round – competitors can climb them in any order.
- There is no isolation, all competitors can watch and communicate with others during the session.
- This round is self-scoring – mark down your attempts and progress accurately as you go. Judges will be present and any cheating will be suitably highlighted!
- Competitors have a maximum of three attempts per problem. A successful first attempt is worth 10 points, a successful second attempt is worth 7 points, a successful third attempt is worth 4 points. Holding the bonus hold is worth 1 bonus point, however this point will not be included in your overall score. The bonus point only come into play in the event of a tie break i.e. your score could be 160 points plus 18 bonus points. 16 flashes and 18 bonuses.
- In the event of a broken hold, a loose hold, or anything else which results in unfair advantage or disadvantage to any competitor, the problem must be repaired. The competitor can make another attempt on the problem.
- Once both qualifying rounds have taken place, all competitors will be ranked in order of total points scored, then bonus points.
- The Top 20 male and female competitors will proceed to the Semi Final.
- General comp rules here
- Each competitor will have 6 problems to climb.
- There is 5 minutes climbing time per problem, no more. i.e. when the clock gets to 00:00 your time is up and you must descend the wall.
- The problems must be climbed on-sight, with no observation time.
- Competitors will be held in isolation until they are ‘called to climb’ their first problem.
- The starting order will in reverse order of qualification i.e. if you qualified last, you will climb first.
- Competitors do not return to isolation in between problems, they must sit in front of the next problem they are to attempt, facing away from the competition wall.
- Each problem will have an allocated judge, who will be responsible for scoring.
- The top 6 male and female competitors will proceed to the final.
- Each competitor will have 4 problems to climb.
- Competitors will be held in isolation before and during the Final, except for the observation period.
- Before the start of the final, all competitors will have 2 minutes observation per problem, before returning to isolation.
- The starting order will be in reverse order of qualification i.e. if you qualified last, you will climb first.
- Each competitor will have ‘4 minutes plus’ (4Plus) on each problem, i.e. if you are on the wall when the timer gets to 00:00, you can continue climbing until you fall off or complete the problem.
- There will be allocated judges who will be responsible for scoring.
- Competitors will return to the main isolation in between climbing the final problems.